Israel is not for everyone, without a doubt. It certainly doesn’t stack up well as a vacation spot, especially in comparison with so many other options. We were there in the heat of the summer, which is something I wouldn’t recommend, given the chance. For the most part, it was very, very hot and quite dry (except when it was uncomfortably humid). Parts of it reminded us of Mexico, with dusty shanties lining some of the roads, even with animals sharing space with humans. The two urban centers of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem were choked with cars except, of course, on Shabbat (Saturday/Sabbath) where, at least in Jerusalem, the city was eerily quiet in many neighborhoods. No, this was no vacation. We were at it virtually from 6am until 9pm, covering more ground, history and life than I had imagined. Led by Yair, the best tour guide on the planet, our wonderful pastor, Mofid, and the intrepid bus driver, Shimon, we were ostensibly on a tour. More accurately, we were on an adventure of a lifetime.
I don’t feel called to write a travelogue but to relay a series of impressions. As in a Monet. Bits and pieces collected on a canvas. Not as a photograph but as moments of color that can stand alone but, when viewed in totality, offer a special beauty that draws us both inward and to something greater. We’ll see how this goes.
The fact and concept of Israel conjures up all sorts of feelings, from indifference to longing, to deep anger to pride and hope. Having studied the place since my teens, taught about it in my twenties and thirties and been hyper-aware of its many challenges and triumphs all of my adult life, you can imagine my anticipation as I looked out the window of our inbound flight, approaching the coastline on a clear Sunday morning, descending over the Mediterranean Sea. Shortly before, I had looked down in the early light to see Greek islands below, some of which we had visited just over a year ago. I knew in a few minutes I would land in a place that was a part of me, unlike any other place on earth.
In America, we are blessed with unmatched physical beauty across a giant landscape. Great mountains and great rivers. Awesome forests and large swaths of dry deserts. Seemingly endless plains and thousands and thousands of lakes, both small and immense. Surrounded on three sides by water, we have been defined by frontier. It’s in our spirit. There’s always something out there to comprehend and even conquer. We get absorbed in the history of our people and our land, marveling at the course life has taken over the past 500 years, since European explorers opened up the continent to immigration. In Israel, 500 years is modern history.
As I mentioned in a prior post, the entire nation is smaller than Lake Michigan but there are pieces of it that have been fought over with more passion and for longer than any other place on earth. The battle has been raging, with some notable exceptions, for thousands of years. When we were standing on a small piece of real estate on the Temple Mount in the heart of Jerusalem, I felt I was standing at the epicenter of the earth. That tends to get one’s attention.
We spent the week in the northern half of the country, beginning in Tel Aviv, the modern and mostly secular Mediterranean seaside bustling metropolis close to the geographic midpoint. The southern half of Israel is sparsely inhabited and largely uncultivated desert. The Roman ruins were everywhere as was evidence of Jewish life going back thousands of years. Both of these nations had great builders as did those that followed. The Christian Byzantines in the 4th century, the Moslems in the 7th century, the Crusaders in the 11th century, the Ottoman Turks in the 16th century … and all of the synagogues, mosques and churches they left behind, some of which they continue to operate in the 21st century.
Our week long journey took us a stone’s throw from the northern border with Lebanon, the northeastern border with Syria and the eastern border with Jordan. We could easily see how close we were to these other countries, basically carved out of the region by British bureaucrats only a hundred years ago. At one point, we were only 25 miles from the Syrian capital of Damascus and we could hear artillery out of sight over the famous Golan Heights. When we were there, Israeli jets bombarded a suspected chemical plant in Syria. Some in our group were a little oft-put but my feelings were reflected in the comments of an Israeli family we spoke with that this was just part of life there. Nothing to pay any attention to. Oh, it’s Thursday? Of course there will be military action as there is every week.
While in the north, among many other things, we visited the tall hillside overlooking the Sea of Galilee (a very large lake) where Jesus probably gave his famous Sermon on the Mount, perhaps the most widely known piece of his teaching during his three years of public ministry. I am usually able to visualize things that aren’t actually there and it was not hard to rid my mind’s eye of the church planted on the spot and picture the multitudes yearning for wisdom from this strange man, trying to fathom how he was turning what they had believed upside down.
Not far away were the towns of Nazareth, where Jesus grew up and Capurnaum where he spent much of his time. One of the first major highlights of the trip was taking a mockup of an ancient boat out on the Sea of Galilee. We easily gazed at the shorelines, still pristine with small beaches where Jesus would have come across Simon (Peter) and a few other fishermen and told them to “drop your nets and follow me.” The world would never be the same again. I live those words every day so to see the location immediately next to me was to close a circle that I will never forget. While also out on that boat, it didn’t take much to picture two of the most well known stories from the Gospels: Jesus walking on the water, inviting Peter to join him, and the storm that nearly swamped their small craft when Jesus asked them why they were so afraid. I have Rembrandt’s beautiful depiction of that Storm on the Sea of Galilee hanging prominently in our study as I write these words. That episode, too, has great significance.
Just north of the Sea of Galilee, nestled in the hills that rise up to Lebanon, are the springs and water sources that initiate the Jordan River, flowing soon into the Galilee. At the southern end of the lake, the Jordan begins anew on its long journey south down to the Dead Sea. It was here, very close to the headwaters, we conducted the ceremonial immersion in the Jordan River, reenacting the baptism of Jesus which heralded the beginning of his three year public ministry that culminated with his crucifixion. Our reenactment was one of the special moments in the life of one who follows Jesus. Our pastor prayed over each of us individually as we joined him in the chest deep waters of the slowly moving river. Our entire group was deeply moved. I had the privilege of assisting Mofid, helping the people to move from the shore into the river. This will be another indelible moment. If the Gospel story is to believed, when Jesus’ first cousin, John, nicknamed The Baptist, received Jesus into the river, the skies opened up and the voice said, “This is my beloved son, with whom I am well pleased.” I’d have settled for a voice that said, “This is my son, with whom I am partially pleased.” 🙂
Actually, the real baptism did not occur right there but quite a bit south in a remote and desert region just north of the Dead Sea. John had “come out of the wilderness” to meet Jesus. That wilderness was quite evident in the completely desolate environment in that region. They only get about 1 inch of rain a year. This is the location of Qumran, the rocky hills pockmarked with caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in the late 1940s by shepherds. They were the work of the group of ascetic Jews named the Essenes, a monkish and communal order who transcribed ancient scripture. John was probably a member. The scrolls, when completely authenticated, rocked the world. They were 1st century verbatim of the Hebrew texts that make up what Christians refer to as the Old Testament. Prior to this, the oldest surviving texts were 1000 years more recent. Not far away, we visited the mountain fortress of Masada, where about 1000 Jewish warriors and their families made a last stand against the Romans around 73 AD, before taking their own lives when it was clear they would be defeated and sold into slavery. There were definitely some tears in our group as our guide told the dramatic story as we stood in the remarkable ruins of this fortress, high over the desert and overlooking the Dead Sea. We could see below us the ruins of the Roman positions as they prepared over two years to destroy this last stand of Jewish independence in the Middle East. The link with the Holocaust and modern Israel cannot be overstated.
On the lighter side, we spent a night in a very nice hotel on the shore of the Dead Sea. Our guide had advised us all to try a simple exercise. Grab a newspaper and tuck it beneath an arm as we waded into the water. When we reached waist high, simply sit down and lean back, letting our legs rise to the surface. We quickly discovered first hand what we’d heard: You can float on your back effortlessly. We all took pictures in this pose, holding a newspaper on our chests. Some people actually found it difficult to stand back up because it was hard to drop one’s legs! Now, that was an experience of a lifetime. There is only one Dead Sea, 33% salt (the Pacific Ocean is 3% I believe), 1200 feet below sea level, where Death Valley, the lowest point in North America, is only 300 feet below sea level. Some details to file away. 🙂
From there, we headed west and up to Jerusalem. Jeru Shalem. City of Peace. City of God. City of conquest and wars and disputes. As the story goes, at its highest point, now called the Temple Mount, home of the ruins of King Herod the Great’s 1st Century Second Temple as well as the Dome of the Rock, a most holy Moslem site, it is also the site where the father of the Hebrew people, Abraham, was called by God to sacrifice his son, Isaac. Of course, the scriptures tell us that God gave Isaac a last second reprieve and Isaac’s grandson, Joseph, later became Pharaoh’s right hand man. Many centuries later, Moses led the enslaved Jews out of Egypt while his people, under the leadership of Joshua, finally crossed over the Jordan River into the Promised Land. Still much later the shepherd boy, David, improbably killed Goliath and was later anointed King, the first one to unite all of the tribes with his capital at Jerusalem, the City of David. David’s son, Solomon, built the first Temple to house their God, around 1000 BC, which was later destroyed by the Babylonians as the Jews were sent into exile. This was 600 years before Jesus was born.
There is certainly no city in the world that has so captured my attention as Jerusalem. As we crested the pass and saw the city spread out in front, I marveled that I was finally there. Untold millions have made pilgrimages to this spot through the millennia. Countless wars have been fought throughout those millennia. Countless lives have been lost in those wars. Who knows the amount of tears that have been shed during this long time? But, who knows the depth of the hearts of those who approached the city as they paid homage to God, recognizing their call to be true to him?
Jerusalem is surrounded by large hills but to get to the Old City, raised up on the top of its own hill, one has to descend into a surrounding valley that acts as a kind of moat. This serves to set that place truly apart, causing anyone who seeks that ancient place to walk up a steep rise and look heavenward. Nothing serves as well as to see a thing for the first time. Perhaps, sometimes we are underwhelmed and disappointed, having created a picture in our mind of the way things are supposed to be. Perhaps we are overwhelmed by the beauty or significance of the thing. With repetitive exposure, our sense of awe may begin to fade unless we pause to see a familiar thing through the eyes of someone brand new to the scene. I was seeing it with fresh eyes but through the many lenses that have shaped my understanding of its significance. As an historian and a man of faith, I could think of no more consequential place than where I was at that moment.
We made it to Jerusalem on Thursday afternoon and left for Ben Gurion airport outside of Tel Aviv first thing Monday morning. In those three and a half days, we covered thousands of years of life and saw and felt things brand new to each of us.
As was true throughout our trip, there were sites where tradition stated that this or that occurred. There were sites where conjecture went beyond simple tradition but rested on very educated assumptions. And there were sites that were beyond dispute. Given space, I will not differentiate between them here.
We began our Jerusalem journey by walking down the only possible narrow road that could have been the path Jesus took on the day Christians call Palm Sunday, a week before his resurrection, celebrated as Easter. In fulfillment of Isaiah’s prophesy, this itinerant preacher and miracle worker was heralded on what he recognized was the fateful end of his earthly journey. The pathway was steep and we made our way slowly, with a massive and ancient Jewish cemetery to our left. At the bottom, we encountered the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his final hours before being captured. In the hours and days that followed, we spent considerable time in and around the Old City, with its many stories unfolding right in front of us. Too many to mention except for a few. Praying at the surviving Western Wall, called the Wailing Wall. Transiting the Via Delarosa (the Road of Suffering) that Jesus allegedly took after being condemned and on his way to the cross just outside the city walls. (For many Christians, this is a way of connecting with a thing called The Passion, or the final hours of Jesus’ life.) We visited the place where King David probably lived and also the place where the High Priest, Caiaphas, also probably lived and where he judged and condemned Jesus, holding him in a deep cistern. We saw and prayed at the ruins of the ancient Pool of Bethesda where the Gospels describe Jesus healing a crippled man. We sang a glorious song beneath the rotunda of a beautiful small church set along Jesus’ final path. There were many a glistening eye. We visited the Palestinian town of Bethlehem, not far from Jerusalem, and walked to the site beneath a large church where tradition states that Jesus was born in a stable. We worshipped and celebrated communion in the Garden Tomb, the alleged site where Jesus was laid down in the cave after he was taken from the cross.
Everywhere we looked, we saw the crossroads of cultures and the dynamics of a nation and peoples who carry weighty things on their shoulders. Ultra Orthodox Jews with their strange dress most of us have seen in places like New York or in movies and pictures. Greek, Armenian and Russian Orthodox priests. Catholic priests and monks. Seas of Jewish men strolling around wearing yarmulkes. Moslems and Palestinians in traditional dress, the women fully covered. Soldiers and police both on guard and walking casually through the streets, armed to the teeth with automatic weapons, wearing backpacks filled with who knows what. Many seemed very young. Some were strolling hand in hand with their lovers as if saying to the world that we will not let any threat deter us from living the life we seek. Serious faces. Smiling faces. Bustling markets so tightly woven that we were shoulder to shoulder amongst the goods and their vendors. Narrow alleyways and bustling roadways. You had to be careful crossing the street.
We made many new friends on the trip, some who will remain in Israel and may who came home with us. One does not take a journey like this and remain distant from one’s companions.
On Monday morning, as our plane took off and rose rapidly over the coastline, it seemed like we’d been there much longer than eight days. I remember sitting back in my seat, anxious to return to our wonderful home, thinking how blessed I was to have this opportunity. There is much suffering in this life. There always has been and always will be. But there is also much joy. It will take me and us a long long time to process all that we saw and did. But that’s ok. I was changed and it was good. That is something to be treasured. Amen.
Praying at the Western Wall
Overlooking the Dead Sea
A Jerusalem Old City Street
Diane in the Jordan River
The Dead Sea
Our Wonderful Group and Tour Guide
Brad in the Jordan River
Masada
On the Sea of Galilee
On Jerusalem’s Temple Mount